BHUTAN – South Asia Travelogue: day 9

PARO, BHUTAN
Thur Mar 31, 2016

Today is the day we planned to go to one of the most famous places in Bhutan, the Tiger’s Nest. Unfortunately, we woke up to clouds and a threat of rain.

Deciding to brave the elements, we headed to the base of the trail early in the morning, and prepared for the hike up the mountain. Taktsang Palphug Monastery sits precariously on the side of a mountain, 3,000 feet from the base of the valley. The Monastery is nicknamed the Tiger’s Nest because a Buddhist legend tells us that Rinpoche, a Tibetan Guru, flew to the location on the back of a tiger to mediate for 3 months.

From the beginning of the walk, we caught a glimpse of the monastery high on the side of a mountain through the clouds, but it soon disappeared as we began our ascent. Initially, the hike was beautiful, as our trail wound upwards through the trees, with occasional waterfalls and interesting structures along the way. While there was an option to take a pony up the hill, we opted to walk, stepping aside from time to time to let the pony riders pass. As the walk got steeper, one of our party opted to go back down accompanied by Deepak, our driver.

There are 3 stages to the Monastery: Stage 1 is to the Taktsang Tea House (1.3 miles, 973 ft climb), Stage 2 is from the Tea House to the Viewpoint (.9 miles, 734 ft climb), and Stage 3 is to the Monastery (.4 miles, down and up steps).
About a third of the way to the Tea House, the rains began. While no one was worried about getting wet, the dirt trail began to get muddy and slippery and we were beginning to hit the steeper parts. We discussed this with our guide, but all of us really wanted to brave the elements and at least make it to the Tea House.

On our walk upwards, we wondered whether we should have taken the ponies until we saw them slipping and sliding worse than us. Finally, slow and steady, we made it to the Tea House. Inside were many hikers standing around a big wood burning stove in the middle, warming up and drying off their clothes. For much of the time, views of the Tiger’s nest was shrouded in the clouds, but at times it would appear through the mists, clinging to the side of the mountain, tempting us to come closer. However, with the rain not letting up, and the clouds getting thicker, we decided to bide out time at the Tea House, and have lunch.

Warm, full and somewhat dryer, the rain began to let up. Michael considered going on to the Viewpoint, but with the muddy steep trails and no promise that the Tiger’s Nest would be visible, everyone decided to head down before the rains resumed. Indeed they did, however we gingerly made our way down the mountain, tired and happy to be heading back to the dry warmth of our farmhouse home.

As this was our last evening in Bhutan, before joining the larger group in India, we enjoyed a private show by Karma Phunsum Luyang, a local professional dance group which entertained us with many traditional songs and dances of the Bhutanese.

After a fabulous show, we had our good bye dinner, and packed for our trip to New Delhi early the next morning.


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